NEEDLES & GAUGE:
This piece is worked in the round. I would suggest round needles with magic loop. At the top continue in magic loop or use DPN’s, your choice.
Gauges are in 2.25mm / US 01’s before blocking. BRIOCHE 28 sts to 4” and 38 Row/Pairs to 4” …. STOCKING KNIT 32 sts to 4” and 40 Rows to 4” ….
On needles this small you gauge will most likely be pretty close to mine. All versions start with 2.25mm / US 01’s & used them fully on the SMALLEST version. The LARGER also used 3.25 mm / US 3’s after the first short row sections
SIZES:
Sizes are impacted by both needle size AND blocking. The smallest size will be a little tight towards the top without any blocking. This will fit the smallest heads very well, but better on a medium sized head with blocking. SMALLEST Knitted piece is 10” wide (20” around) in Brioche, so there is a LOT of stretch. 9.5” tall (not brimmed/ no fold). LARGEST Knitted piece is 10” wide (20” around) in Brioche, so there is a LOT of stretch. 11.5” tall (not brimmed/ no fold).
NOTIONS:
•Markers (9 total, ONE distinct for the “BOR”). •Scissors. •A hook or needle for tucking ends. •Tassel or pom-pom if desired.
These short rows create interesting shaping to the BRIM of this hat. It changes the line of the brim from straight to curved and creates natural ear flaps / coverings. It is designed to be light and loose. Nice to wear, warm, and will also fit easily into your pocket or purse. And both versions have some slouch, but the LARGEST has more of that character being longer, taller. There is a fair amount of variation you can put into the pattern by combining the 2 sizes in a variety of ways.
You may make the longer or short Brioche (OR 2-color Rib) with either TOP. Both tops are the same instructions, but on the larger one, you change to larger needles after about a third of the body of the hat, on the smaller version, you use the same needles for the entire piece.
Please review all pages of the pattern to see what is offered here, but I DO NOT encourage you to read the entire INSTRUCTIONS first, as short rows can get very confusing to the average knitter. Please hold questions until you are working and get stuck. I have found most things are evident when you are in process and very obscure before (aka- reading).
Yarn Choices: This piece is knit in fingering weight yarn. I do not think this pattern will work if you use heavier yarn or larger needles. You COULD use lace or light fingering weight if desired. I have listed the yarns I used. Please also see Ravelry Projects page for other yarn options. The Ravelry page also shows you what the testers used, and you can read their comments.
HAT UNEEK 3013 - SMALLEST short rib & smaller needles only. YARN worked from BOTH ends of skein
Urth Yarns, Uneek Fingering, (C1 & C2) color “3013” 100g – 435yds ~ I needed roughly: 67g / 292 yards
HAT UNEEK 3002 - LARGEST tall rib & 2 needle sizes. YARN worked from BOTH ends of skein
Urth Yarns, Uneek Fingering, (C1 & C2) color “3002” 100g – 435yds ~ I needed roughly: 75g / 327 yards
HAT 5-MINI SET- LARGEST tall rib, extra Latvian Plait & 2 needle sizes. MINIS worked as indicated in pattern.
Up North Yarns, Minis, Fingering, various bases. Yarn weights and yardages approximated
M#1 – Solstice Dye Dump (pinks/reds) 20g – 88 yds ~ I needed roughly: 16g / 70 yards*
M#2 – Faded Jeans (grey/blue) 20g – 88 yds ~ I needed roughly: 16g / 70 yards*
M#3 – Lake Superior Blues (Blue tonal) 20g – 88 yds ~ I needed roughly: 17g / 74 yards*
M#4 – Zebra Green (Green Tonal) 20g – 93 yds ~ I needed roughly: 16g / 75 yards*
M#5 – Tonal Purple 20g – 88yds ~ I needed roughly: 13g / 57 yards*
* Weights from BEFORE added TASSEL